Putting a new roof on your house might seem like a big job, but with the right know-how, it’s doable, notes First & Main Property Management experts. This guide breaks down the process of installing an asphalt shingle roof into 10 manageable steps. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or just want to understand the process better, this article will walk you through it.
1. Safety First: Prepare Your Work Area
Before climbing up that ladder, let’s talk safety. Roofing can be dangerous, so it’s crucial to set up properly.
Start by clearing the area around your house. Move vehicles, outdoor furniture, and planters away from the walls. This protects your belongings from falling debris and gives you space to work.
Next, set up sturdy ladders at several points around the house. Make sure they extend at least three feet above the roof edge for safe access. If you’re working on a steep roof, consider renting safety harnesses and roof jacks to prevent falls.
Don’t forget about personal protective equipment (PPE). Wear sturdy boots with good traction, work gloves, and safety glasses. A hard hat is also a good idea to protect against falling tools or materials.
But if you think this is too much work for you, you can always hire a reputable roofing company around Wisconsin or in areas near you to do the work for you.
2. Out With The Old: Remove Existing Shingles
Now that the work area is safe, it’s time to strip off the old roof. This step is messy, so be prepared.
Start at the peak of the roof and work your way down, removing shingles with a roofing shovel or fork. Be thorough – you want to get down to the bare roof deck. As you work, toss the old shingles into a rented dumpster or designated debris area.
Once the shingles are gone, pull out all the old nails. A pry bar works well for stubborn ones. Then, sweep the roof clean of any leftover debris. A clean surface is key for the next steps.
3. Inspect and Repair: Check Your Roof Deck
With the old shingles gone, you can now see the roof deck clearly. This is the time to check for any damage or weak spots.
Walk the entire roof, looking for soft or rotted areas in the wood. Press down with your foot – if an area feels spongy, it needs to be replaced. Mark these spots clearly.
Replace any damaged sections of plywood or boards. Make sure the new pieces are the same thickness as the existing deck, and nail them securely in place.
4. Lay the Groundwork: Install Drip Edge and Underlayment
Now that your roof deck is solid, it’s time to add some important layers.
First, install a drip edge along the eaves (bottom edge) of the roof. This metal strip helps direct water into the gutters. Nail it in place every 12 inches.
Next comes the underlayment. This acts as a water barrier. Start at the bottom of the roof and work your way up, overlapping each row by about 4 inches. Nail it down following the manufacturer’s instructions.
For extra protection in areas prone to ice dams, install ice and water shield. This goes along the eaves, in valleys, and around chimneys and vents.
5. Valley Preparation: Install Valley Flashing
Roof valleys, where two roof planes meet, need extra attention. They channel a lot of water, so proper flashing is crucial.
If your roof has open valleys, install metal valley flashing now. Center it in the valley and nail it along the edges, not in the center where water flows. Overlap pieces by at least six inches in the direction of water flow.
For closed valleys, you’ll weave asphalt shingles from both sides. We’ll cover that later in the roof installation process.
6. Starter Strip: Lay the Foundation for Your Shingles
Before laying full shingles, you need to install a starter strip along the eaves. This gives the first row of roof shingles something to adhere to and helps prevent water infiltration.
You can buy pre-made starter strips or make your own by cutting off the tabs of regular shingles. Align the starter strip so it overhangs the drip edge by about 3/8 inches. Nail it down every six inches.
7. Shingle Installation: The Main Event
Now comes the most visible part of the job – laying the new shingles themselves. This step requires patience and attention to detail.
Start at the bottom corner of the roof. Lay your first shingle so it overhangs the drip edge by about 3/8 inch. Nail it in place following the manufacturer’s instructions – usually four nails per shingle.
Continue across the roof, butting each shingle tightly against its neighbor. When you reach the end, cut the last shingle to fit.
For the second row, cut six inches off the first shingle to stagger the seams. This offset pattern continues up the roof, creating a more water-resistant and visually appealing result.
As you work your way up, remember to chalk lines every few rows to keep your courses straight. Nothing looks worse than crooked shingle lines!
8. Tackling Challenges: Valleys, Vents, and Chimneys
While most of the roof might be straightforward shingle installation, you’ll encounter some tricky spots that need special attention.
For closed valleys, weave shingles from both sides as you go. Cut shingles at an angle to fit the valley, and embed the cut edge in roof cement for a watertight seal.
When you reach a vent pipe, install a rubber boot flashing. Slide this over the pipe and nail the base to the roof. Shingle up to the bottom of the flashing, then lay shingles over the top and sides, cutting them to fit around the pipe.
Chimneys require step flashing – individual pieces of metal flashing that integrate with the shingles. Install these as you go, alternating with shingle courses.
9. Cap It Off: Ridge and Hip Shingles
Once all the field shingles are in place, it’s time to finish the peaks of your roof.
For hips and ridges, use special cap shingles. These are pre-bent to fold over the peak. Start at the bottom of a hip or at the end of a ridge opposite the prevailing winds. Overlap each cap shingle, nailing as you go.
If you have a ridge vent, install that first, then cover it with cap shingles for a finished look.
10. Clean-Up and Final Inspection: The Last Step
Congratulations! The hard work is done. But before you call it a day, there’s one last important step.
Do a thorough clean-up of your work area. Use a magnetic sweeper to pick up stray nails from the ground – these can be dangerous to pets and car tires.
Finally, step back and inspect your work. Look for any missing nails, crooked shingles, or spots that don’t look quite right. It’s easier to fix small issues now than to deal with leaks later.
A job well done means a roof that will protect your home for years to come.
Wrapping Up
Installing an asphalt shingle roof is a big job, but breaking it down into these 10 steps makes it more manageable. Remember, if at any point you feel uncomfortable or overwhelmed, it’s okay to call in a professional. Roofing is critical to your home’s protection, so it’s important to get it right.
With proper installation and regular maintenance, your new asphalt shingle roof should keep you dry for 20 to 30 years. That’s peace of mind worth investing in.
Whether you tackle this project yourself or hire a pro, understanding the process helps you make informed decisions about your home. Here’s to a dry house and a job well done!
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